I decided to try to make it to Ilsan on bike yesterday. You have to vaguely follow the railroad tracks near my house through Haengsin till you find the end of the city. Then begins the uber dense countryside. The country heading toward Ilsan is a deal more rugged than the country the other direction headed to the Han. First of all despite the cold it stunk out there. Like shit. Not good healthy cow shit either - fetid dog shit in mass quantities. Then I found the source - the whole area is packed with dog farms. Little runty farms with cages of barking dogs. I'm no dog lover, but it was pretty sickening.
I did manage to find my way to Ilsan by following the massive smokestack from what I think is the coal plant. They've plated the top with chrome like a massive olympic torch, so it's very easy to follow. Getting back was another matter entirely. I vaguely knew the direction I was heading but it'd be a tough trip by night.
Here's a sign for a dog farm:
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